The sectors "Unten/Oben/Wasserfall" situated in a breathtaking alpine scenery
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The sectors "Unten/Oben/Wasserfall" situated in a breathtaking alpine scenery |
Embedded in a fascinating mountain and glacier world the Furkapass belongs certainly to the most beautiful european bouldering areas.
The boulder fields are spread out up to an altitude of about 2700 m, in the summer months small remaining snow fields and cool glacier winds make the climate perfect for bouldering even during hot days.
It was in the year 2014 when a motivated group of climbers from the area around Luzern - Joel Häfliger, Samuel Burri, Patrick Nussbaum, Moritz Walther, Benjy Stadelmann, Max Meier, Joy Heinrich and some other friends - started to develop the area systematically, in the following years they discovered consistently new boulders and areas. In the year 2019 Harald Röker was invited by Joel to join the group and thanks to many inspiring days in the boulder fields together with the swiss friends the number of problems was doubled until the end of the season to about 400 lines from very easy to about Fb 8b.
In the following years until 2022 it was again mainly Harald Röker, his brother Ulrich and the swiss friends who pushed the number of problems up to more than 660 lines. Furthermore in the year 2022 Harald could get hooked his nephew Kim Marschner to join up there for the summer who opened also about a dozen lines, amongst these some very amazing highballs up to 8b+.
But no worries, the height of most problems is perfect for bouldering and the landing is in general good or good to protect with crashpads.
Despite the high altitude the access also to the higher situated sectors is no real problem to deal with. Almost all sectors are reachable by well maintained hiking-pathes, which run apart from some short steeper ascents often for longer distances along quite flat sections. And if you want you can "hop upwards" from sector to sector. And once the pad is stashed at place the following days are more kind of a warm-up walk and the breathtaking alpine ambience more than makes up for the little effort.
Situation: At the Furkapass, some boulders
close to the pass road, most sectors further up in the mountains above the small
hamlet Tiefenbach.
Climate: Sunny
at an altitude of about 2200-2700 m.
Thanks to the nearby glaciers often pleasantly chilly also on hot days. Mostly
from
end of October/beginning November to somewhen in June the pass road is closed (winter closure).
Even
in the summer months every now and then snow attacks lasting several days are
to be expected, though this happens not very often.
Rock:
Granite
/ Biotite-Orthogneiss
Topo: 
swiss Bloc °1 (GEBRO Verlag),
more
info and order
Boulder problems
End of the year 2022 about 660 problems up to 8b+
in 11 well developed sectors.
2 - 5+ : 214
6a - 6b+ : 231
6c - 7a+ : 139
7b - 7c+ : 41
8a - 8b+: 12
Proj: 24
And the development continues permanently:
Lowest, small but nice sector relatively close to the pass road.
On the way to the main sectors some really cool boulders are to be found now and then. These are summarized in the sector Hüttenzustieg.
Some really excellent boulders can be found in this sector. The rock is a bit different to most other boulders in the area and should be real granite.
Click on image to enlarge....
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Patrick Nussbaum "Gönnung" (6a) |
Samuel Burri "Boomer" (7a+) |
Patrick Nussbaum "Wallaby" (7b) |
Small sector in close vicinity to a glacier lake with some nice problems and a breathtaking view on the glaciated Galenstock.
Spacious sector below the Albert-Heim-Hütte with some exquisitely nice problems in excellent rock.
Instant classics: "Moby Thick" (7a) and the extension "Moby Extradick" (7b+/c)
Long drawn-out band of boulders at the lower base of the hill with the sector Oben/Wasserfall.
Perfect for a breather and some first moves after the access.
The sector "Unten" is lying at the lower base of the boulder field,
above can be found the reddish-brown boulders of the sectors "Oben/Wasserfall"
Certainly one of the most beautiful boulder fields in the european Alps, situated at an altitude of about 2600 m.
Click on image to enlarge....
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Samuel Burri "Lil Mo" (6a+) |
Samuel Burri "Teamline" (7a) |
Samuel Burri "Warmup Kante" (5b) |
Joel Häfliger "Use your imagination" (6a) |
Joel Häfliger "Spectre" (6b) |
Samuel Burri "Morphin" (7a+) |
Joel Häfliger "Froschkante" (4c) |
Joel Häfliger "Spectre" (6b) |
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Harald Röker "Zamomin" (8b) |
Thomas Banz "M" (6b+) |
Thomas Banz "Spectre" (6b) |
Thomas Banz "Sundowner" (7b+) |
Samuel Burri "Ceres" (6b+) |
Joel Häfliger "Teamline" (7a) |
Joel Häfliger "Teamline" (7a) |
The highest situated sector of the area at an altitude of about 2700 m above sea level in close vicinity to the alpine routes at the Graue Wand.
Sometimes packed in snow also in summer, sometimes surrounded by rivulets, sometimes just a spacious sandy plain, depending on the season the sector is a fascinating spectacle of nature ... And repeatedly one can find here boulders of excellent rock quality with superb problems.
Small sector directly next to the hiking path leading to the sector Schwemmebene. Perfect for a short stop to make the access to the sector Schwemmebene more interesting.
Usually snow-free a bit earlier in the year than the sector Oben/Wasserfall.
Spread-out sector with some beautiful boulders, partly on flat meadow, partly on blocky hillsides.
There are also numerous boulders in very blocky terrain to be found which have not been in the main focus of development yet.
Excellent, middle-sized high altitude sector, the approach is a bit longer but the scenery is amazing.
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